September is upon us, and with it comes cooler weather and the holy month of Ramadan (aka Ramazan in Turkish - go here to read an excellent summary of Ramazan in Turkey). I had only previously had contact with Ramadan from friends and students in the United States, where it was honestly more of a novelty to me. Now it is everywhere, in all five senses, all happening at once.
For a religious time of self-examination, manifested most obviously by fasting throughout the day, Ramazan does not seem to mesh well with capitalism or a megatropolis of +/- 10 million. I cannot imagine fasting at all (you know what I am like when I have not been fed), let alone fasting while trying to cope with the frenetic insanity of Istanbul. Perhaps the village is one thing - perhaps people really do have the time and energy to put their mortality into perspective - but here, to this total outsider, it seems almost impossible. On the other hand, we outsiders have noted the iftar (breaking fast) tents set up around the city with a bit of envy. It all seems worthwhile when you can share a meal with people after a long, frustrating day.
This day begins with someone walking through the streets with a drum so that people can feed themselves before sunrise (as in, really effing early). I had previously thought that those of us in Cihangir would be exempt from such drumming because there are so many expats here. Ha! Surprise! Further examination, this morning for example, proves this theory incorrect. After the drumming there is the call to prayer around 5:00. We had already mostly accustomed ourselves to the call to prayer, barely noticing it at this point even though there is practically a minaret in the window. Ramazan, however, is completely different - the calls to prayer go on for more than five minutes and are especially elaborate and loud. But, so it goes.
Though there are certainly plenty of people, especially in my neighborhood, who do not take part in Ramazan, the cafes do seem noticeably emptier than usual. "Man bars," my name for places where men go to escape their wives, still have men in them, but most are without their ubiquitous tea and cigarettes. I have seen women at the grocery buying piles of food (which must be hard when you're fasting all day), and there really is a rush for the nearest restaurant at 7:30 when mosques throughout the city signal that the sun has officially set.
I haven't yet shared an iftar meal with anyone and I doubt I will, but I have a month to get it to happen so we'll see. In the meantime I will make more observations from afar.
Speaking of meals, in my next post, by popular demand, I will describe two unforgettable dinners.
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Friday, August 31, 2007
greetings once again!
Hello faithful readers, I'm back in Istanbul, and have been for almost two weeks. I know I haven't written, but you haven't missed anything, believe me. I have spent almost my entire time here searching for an apartment, a task I knew would be difficult but had no idea exactly how frustrating. BUT, after hitting the pavement and seeing everything from hovels to extravagant palaces, I finally found a truly lovely spot, plopped in the center of the expat and generally funky neighborhood of Cihangir. I'm writing you from it now (via pilfered internet of course), sweaty but happy. We're going to be paying through the nose, but it's worth it, compared to dry-as-dust Bakırköy (where my last apartment was located).
The apartment has been completely renovated, and so far everything works and is quite pristine (this is kind of unusual here). There is one bedroom and one large living room/dining area, as well as the best kitchen and bathroom I've seen on a teacher's budget. There are giant bay windows that go all the way around the main room, which, after spending most of the day unpacking and poking around, I learned get full sun from about 11 to 6. This is a sweltering thought now, but it should be quite lovely once the weather cools down a bit. You don't need any artificial lighting at all during the day. There is even an a/c unit, which I turned on for about 45 minutes but then turned off again after I was consumed with guilt. It is now torturing me silently. Best of all, because we're lazy Americans, there's an elevator (this is totally posh for such an ordinary building! no sweaty, grocery-laden walk-ups!) and a TV with two channels in English plus some English-language programming on the other channels. Bliss!
Will write more, but have to do 4th load of laundry of the day.
This weekend's plan: buy an electric fan, go to school to check out schedule, poke around the neighborhood.
The apartment has been completely renovated, and so far everything works and is quite pristine (this is kind of unusual here). There is one bedroom and one large living room/dining area, as well as the best kitchen and bathroom I've seen on a teacher's budget. There are giant bay windows that go all the way around the main room, which, after spending most of the day unpacking and poking around, I learned get full sun from about 11 to 6. This is a sweltering thought now, but it should be quite lovely once the weather cools down a bit. You don't need any artificial lighting at all during the day. There is even an a/c unit, which I turned on for about 45 minutes but then turned off again after I was consumed with guilt. It is now torturing me silently. Best of all, because we're lazy Americans, there's an elevator (this is totally posh for such an ordinary building! no sweaty, grocery-laden walk-ups!) and a TV with two channels in English plus some English-language programming on the other channels. Bliss!
Will write more, but have to do 4th load of laundry of the day.
This weekend's plan: buy an electric fan, go to school to check out schedule, poke around the neighborhood.
Friday, June 8, 2007
police raid - now I have seen everything
Early this morning, a big, burly Turkish plainclothes policeman and his little lackey knocked at our door with a warrant (in Turkish) to search our apartment. The big guy spoke perfect English, but he refused to tell me what was written on the warrant, so I wouldn't let him in. After a long time of standing in the doorway, during which both my foot and the dude's foot were planted against the door (mine to prevent him from coming in and his to prevent me from closing the door), they came in on the grounds that they wanted proof that we work here legally (almost no English teachers do). At no point did we admit to working here, but it was pretty obvious. What else were we doing with an apartment and several tourist visas between us? However, while they were searching our stuff, I noticed that they were looking under our mattresses and in our medication, and I had a hunch they were probably looking for drugs (which we did not have, thank you very much).
While we were still standing in the doorway, the lackey went to fetch our landlady and her husband. Instead of reassuring us, or defending us, they were absolutely terrified and told us to do whatever the policemen asked. I already felt like a child in trouble for something I didn't know I had done; to see two terrified adults who are from this culture made it even worse. Our manager and school owner (whom we phoned) couldn't do anything for us either; we just had to let them humiliate us by searching the place. I know our neighbors had a field day. Later it was translated for us that there had been a "tip" that we had drugs in the house, which was ridiculous. Our school owner emailed us later and said that they were doing a big drug bust on foreigners throughout the city, and we just happened to be caught up in the whole thing. We'll never really know the truth. The fact that we were foreigners made it easy to use the story that they wanted proper documentation, but I think the drug thing is more likely.
The whole incident has been "cleared" by our school owner, and don't ask me how. It has been a long day. Well-deserved cocktails were had at 4pm.
Now I really can't wait to go home.
While we were still standing in the doorway, the lackey went to fetch our landlady and her husband. Instead of reassuring us, or defending us, they were absolutely terrified and told us to do whatever the policemen asked. I already felt like a child in trouble for something I didn't know I had done; to see two terrified adults who are from this culture made it even worse. Our manager and school owner (whom we phoned) couldn't do anything for us either; we just had to let them humiliate us by searching the place. I know our neighbors had a field day. Later it was translated for us that there had been a "tip" that we had drugs in the house, which was ridiculous. Our school owner emailed us later and said that they were doing a big drug bust on foreigners throughout the city, and we just happened to be caught up in the whole thing. We'll never really know the truth. The fact that we were foreigners made it easy to use the story that they wanted proper documentation, but I think the drug thing is more likely.
The whole incident has been "cleared" by our school owner, and don't ask me how. It has been a long day. Well-deserved cocktails were had at 4pm.
Now I really can't wait to go home.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
new post!
Hello, dear readers! Now, before you point out how long it’s been since I wrote here, let me say that I know and I’m sorry. I don’t have any excuses, really, other than the fact that ever since I moved out of my old apartment it’s harder to get internet access.
Much has changed since I last wrote here. The weather is the most obvious example: after about two months of absolutely lovely, sunny, dry spring days we are entering the reign of soup, which apparently doesn’t abate until around mid- to late-September. I wish I could say that my time at home (from July 5 to August 19!) will be a relief from the heat and humidity but sadly I know that will not be the case.
Yes, you read that correctly – I’m coming home soon! Despite all the good things going on here, and there are many of them, I can’t wait. I look forward to eating lots of different foods (Thai, Vietnamese, Salvadoran, Mexican, Ethiopian, Indian, Pakistani, mom’s…), seeing everyone, and having some snobby microbrew at Galaxy Hut or Paradiso. And yes, I will be coming back here, perhaps with a sidekick…all will be revealed in good time!
But back to
The AK Party [Islamic ruling party] has not promoted a single law that directly challenges
As I write this there is news that there was a bomb in
It is really interesting being in a place that both literally and figuratively straddles the East and West. As much as that is a cliché, it’s so true. There is so much talk of
I have a lot more to write, so I'll be back soon. I promise!
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
long-awaited update
Hi, all.
I've been a bad blogger, I know. I've let you down. And I have excuses, lots of them. Needless to say I've been busy - up to my ears in visitors, work, and mild apartment disasters. Jonathan's visit was great, and he even got to experience a very Istanbul predicament: one day we got home from sightseeing and there was a notice on the front door, which of course I couldn't read because it was in Turkish. I forgot about it but I noticed it was soooooooo cold when I got up the next morning. It turns out, the two things were related. Kramer pointed out that my gas box thingamajig was gone, taken away because the previous tenant had closed the account, leaving us without gas or hot water. Bummer! Several days and $100 later, I had a new kombi (the heating system), but I'd also reached my last straw with my apartment. It has been nothing but a series of unexpected expenses, and my creep of a landlord (who doesn't even live in Istanbul) has done nothing to help me out. So, starting next week, I'll be living with another teacher in her fabulous apartment, also nearby school. I'm really looking forward to it.
Now my mother is visiting, so I should probably go look after her before she gets hustled into buying a carpet. More later, and I promise not to wait so long this time.
I've been a bad blogger, I know. I've let you down. And I have excuses, lots of them. Needless to say I've been busy - up to my ears in visitors, work, and mild apartment disasters. Jonathan's visit was great, and he even got to experience a very Istanbul predicament: one day we got home from sightseeing and there was a notice on the front door, which of course I couldn't read because it was in Turkish. I forgot about it but I noticed it was soooooooo cold when I got up the next morning. It turns out, the two things were related. Kramer pointed out that my gas box thingamajig was gone, taken away because the previous tenant had closed the account, leaving us without gas or hot water. Bummer! Several days and $100 later, I had a new kombi (the heating system), but I'd also reached my last straw with my apartment. It has been nothing but a series of unexpected expenses, and my creep of a landlord (who doesn't even live in Istanbul) has done nothing to help me out. So, starting next week, I'll be living with another teacher in her fabulous apartment, also nearby school. I'm really looking forward to it.
Now my mother is visiting, so I should probably go look after her before she gets hustled into buying a carpet. More later, and I promise not to wait so long this time.
Saturday, March 10, 2007
Monday, March 5, 2007
more food
First and foremost, thank you for your sweet birthday messages. I didn't have a particularly exciting day because I was working, but one of my students got me a cake (at 9:00am!), and after my last class (at 9:30pm, arghh) I went out for a couple beers with the other teachers. I can't really ask for more, especially when you add in some great phone calls. So, thank you!
I spent most of Saturday with Murat, a friend of my family's, as well as his cousin and the cousin's girlfriend. The day had started out mild but pouring rain, but suddenly, as I was riding the longest bus ride of my life, the sky cleared up to a lovely deep blue. It stayed that way for the rest of the day and was definitely a sign of how beautiful things will be as spring sets in. We went to a fish restaurant on the Bosphorus in Istinye, a far cry from where I'm living right now. Picture a tiny bay with little yachts docked along the banks of the Bosphorus, with hills rising up all around and the Asian side of the city across the water. Lovely! Also, you need to understand how fantastic fish restaurants are here - generally you get some kind of appetizer, and then while you're waiting for your fish (chosen from a list of completely unrecognizable names - mostly from the Black Sea region), an enormous bowl of luscious salad arrives, which you mix with lemon juice and olive oil and toss. Then each person's fish arrives, simply a whole grilled fish which you can season with salt and lemon and then devour. Delicious!
Then, even better, we went to a different swanky part of town and had kunefe, to date the best dessert I have had here (and I am quickly becoming an expert). It's a large, round, flat disc of one layer of something like shredded wheat, then a thin layer of sweet cheese, then another layer of shredded wheat, all completely doused in honey and butter and served warm and melty, with a dollop of cream on top. Then you sprinkle coarsely ground pistachios and walnuts all over and die and go to heaven. Bliss.
We're back to grey weather but I'm looking forward to more desserts, more bike riding, more fish, and more days off. Jonathan will be here Wednesday, hooray!
I spent most of Saturday with Murat, a friend of my family's, as well as his cousin and the cousin's girlfriend. The day had started out mild but pouring rain, but suddenly, as I was riding the longest bus ride of my life, the sky cleared up to a lovely deep blue. It stayed that way for the rest of the day and was definitely a sign of how beautiful things will be as spring sets in. We went to a fish restaurant on the Bosphorus in Istinye, a far cry from where I'm living right now. Picture a tiny bay with little yachts docked along the banks of the Bosphorus, with hills rising up all around and the Asian side of the city across the water. Lovely! Also, you need to understand how fantastic fish restaurants are here - generally you get some kind of appetizer, and then while you're waiting for your fish (chosen from a list of completely unrecognizable names - mostly from the Black Sea region), an enormous bowl of luscious salad arrives, which you mix with lemon juice and olive oil and toss. Then each person's fish arrives, simply a whole grilled fish which you can season with salt and lemon and then devour. Delicious!
Then, even better, we went to a different swanky part of town and had kunefe, to date the best dessert I have had here (and I am quickly becoming an expert). It's a large, round, flat disc of one layer of something like shredded wheat, then a thin layer of sweet cheese, then another layer of shredded wheat, all completely doused in honey and butter and served warm and melty, with a dollop of cream on top. Then you sprinkle coarsely ground pistachios and walnuts all over and die and go to heaven. Bliss.
We're back to grey weather but I'm looking forward to more desserts, more bike riding, more fish, and more days off. Jonathan will be here Wednesday, hooray!
Monday, February 26, 2007
dog days of February
As I predicted, the weather turned icy cold and windy as soon as I picked up my bike from the store. I'm not even making excuses, either, I swear. Still working on finding a Pilates class, too.
Things are pretty quiet around here. Payday is coming up (on my birthday, if everything is prompt, which it usually isn't), so we're all short on cash and laying low until we get our dough. The days have been dreary and cold, making me long for sun and sandals. I know that will all come soon enough and before I know it I'll be complaining about the heat.
At the risk of being taken away in handcuffs, I must mention that the pirate DVD market here is incredible and I've picked up several titles to tide me over to warmer weather. There is also enough trading of DVDs and books among the teachers that I won't have to worry about entertaining myself for cheap. Nonetheless, if you are planning on visiting do not hesitate to bring along some books with you.
Speaking of visiting, a very nice young man will be here next week and I'm so excited! If you know who he is and want to put in an order for a cheap pashmina, let me know. I promise he won't mind that I am volunteering him to be a scarf mule.
More soon!
Things are pretty quiet around here. Payday is coming up (on my birthday, if everything is prompt, which it usually isn't), so we're all short on cash and laying low until we get our dough. The days have been dreary and cold, making me long for sun and sandals. I know that will all come soon enough and before I know it I'll be complaining about the heat.
At the risk of being taken away in handcuffs, I must mention that the pirate DVD market here is incredible and I've picked up several titles to tide me over to warmer weather. There is also enough trading of DVDs and books among the teachers that I won't have to worry about entertaining myself for cheap. Nonetheless, if you are planning on visiting do not hesitate to bring along some books with you.
Speaking of visiting, a very nice young man will be here next week and I'm so excited! If you know who he is and want to put in an order for a cheap pashmina, let me know. I promise he won't mind that I am volunteering him to be a scarf mule.
More soon!
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
bikes
I bought a bike today! I think I got a good deal, too - it's a used, deep red, lovely Peugeot (I didn't know they made bikes) in good condition. $80, including a good lock. They're cleaning it up for me and then I'll pick it up Friday, at which point it will promptly rain and destroy the lovely weather we're having. Now I just need a Pilates class.
Thanks for your worried messages about the earthquake. Thankfully, it was in southeastern Turkey and not here, but it's an understandable concern - Istanbullus live with the understanding that it could happen any time. I think the one that struck in Izmit in 1999, plus the predictions that a "major" one will hit Istanbul "within the next 30 years" really color Turks' identity. Maybe that's why they smoke all the damn time.
Thanks for your worried messages about the earthquake. Thankfully, it was in southeastern Turkey and not here, but it's an understandable concern - Istanbullus live with the understanding that it could happen any time. I think the one that struck in Izmit in 1999, plus the predictions that a "major" one will hit Istanbul "within the next 30 years" really color Turks' identity. Maybe that's why they smoke all the damn time.
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
heaven
One of my students went on a business trip to London last week. He asked me if I wanted anything, and the first thing that popped into my mind was peanut butter (of course). I just had a peanut butter and strawberry jelly sandwich - bliss.
I also had kesme dondurma, shown above. Basically, it's extra-frozen ice cream that is sliced, and you eat it with a fork. It's scrumptious. This is why you all need to visit me.
Tomorrow I am looking into Pilates classes and bikes, so I can keep enjoying this food.
I also had kesme dondurma, shown above. Basically, it's extra-frozen ice cream that is sliced, and you eat it with a fork. It's scrumptious. This is why you all need to visit me.
Tomorrow I am looking into Pilates classes and bikes, so I can keep enjoying this food.
Friday, February 16, 2007
TGIF
Hello blog readers!
I'm settling into a nice routine here, which has been particularly nice this week due to some class cancellations. As I result I've had a bit more free time than I anticipated, especially after last week's series of 13-hour days. What have I done in my spare time, you ask? Well, I've taken some long walks, I've watched some episodes of Studio 60 (I'm so glad I put off watching that show till I got here), and I've taken some much-needed naps. I feel like I'm still trying to catch up on sleep from last week.
Istanbul is doing well. After a week of frigid weather, the temperature is back up to mid 40s-50s (F), making it extremely pleasant for walking and exploring. I've done quite a bit of both with Suzie. It's nice to have someone my age around. Also, speaking of weather, I went to my local cinema to see "An Inconvenient Truth" on Valentine's Day (alone, thank you) after lying around in pain after a mildly unfortunate lunch. I knew what I was in for, so I was prepared to be shocked and awed, but I was also pleased to see Al Gore doing something he clearly loves to do. Certainly this must suit him better than being president. Later, I talked about the film with my CNN weather reporter student, who is now the person I come to with any questions I have about Turkey (truly anything, except Armenia). He confirmed everything Al Gore had to say, and even provided me with extra information.
The same student took me to see the CNN Turkey headquarters on Sunday afternoon, a massive building in the middle of nowhere with impressive security. I got to see all the sets and broadcasting equipment, which made me as excited as a seventh grader. I forgot my camera, of course, but actually there wasn't much to photograph. Radio and TV stations always seem so exciting to me, maybe because they are so obviously participating in our lives in real time with immediate results. On that particular Sunday only the techies and minions were working, so the average age in the cafeteria was probably about 30. In fact, I don't think I saw anyone over 40. It was amazing, more like being back at McGill's cafeteria than the Turkish headquarters of a multinational corporation.
CNN weather guy is only one example of how great all my students are. No matter how deadly my schedule is, or how frustrating living here can be, my actual students make every day hilarious and unique, and I'm grateful for that.
I've been getting some complaints that I don't write often enough so I'll try to work on that. Until next time!
I'm settling into a nice routine here, which has been particularly nice this week due to some class cancellations. As I result I've had a bit more free time than I anticipated, especially after last week's series of 13-hour days. What have I done in my spare time, you ask? Well, I've taken some long walks, I've watched some episodes of Studio 60 (I'm so glad I put off watching that show till I got here), and I've taken some much-needed naps. I feel like I'm still trying to catch up on sleep from last week.
Istanbul is doing well. After a week of frigid weather, the temperature is back up to mid 40s-50s (F), making it extremely pleasant for walking and exploring. I've done quite a bit of both with Suzie. It's nice to have someone my age around. Also, speaking of weather, I went to my local cinema to see "An Inconvenient Truth" on Valentine's Day (alone, thank you) after lying around in pain after a mildly unfortunate lunch. I knew what I was in for, so I was prepared to be shocked and awed, but I was also pleased to see Al Gore doing something he clearly loves to do. Certainly this must suit him better than being president. Later, I talked about the film with my CNN weather reporter student, who is now the person I come to with any questions I have about Turkey (truly anything, except Armenia). He confirmed everything Al Gore had to say, and even provided me with extra information.
The same student took me to see the CNN Turkey headquarters on Sunday afternoon, a massive building in the middle of nowhere with impressive security. I got to see all the sets and broadcasting equipment, which made me as excited as a seventh grader. I forgot my camera, of course, but actually there wasn't much to photograph. Radio and TV stations always seem so exciting to me, maybe because they are so obviously participating in our lives in real time with immediate results. On that particular Sunday only the techies and minions were working, so the average age in the cafeteria was probably about 30. In fact, I don't think I saw anyone over 40. It was amazing, more like being back at McGill's cafeteria than the Turkish headquarters of a multinational corporation.
CNN weather guy is only one example of how great all my students are. No matter how deadly my schedule is, or how frustrating living here can be, my actual students make every day hilarious and unique, and I'm grateful for that.
I've been getting some complaints that I don't write often enough so I'll try to work on that. Until next time!
Saturday, February 10, 2007
tourist again
Today I went back to Sultanahmet with another teacher, Suzie, who is British and also the only teacher younger than I am. After a lonnnnng week of working really hard it was nice to be a tourist again, and remind ourselves why we're here.
It's not hard to remember once you see places like these:
The Aya Sofia...
...the Cistern...
...and nice cafes in the Grand Bazaar (where I bought the bathrobe to end all bathrobes).
Life is pretty good!
It's not hard to remember once you see places like these:
The Aya Sofia...
...the Cistern...
...and nice cafes in the Grand Bazaar (where I bought the bathrobe to end all bathrobes).
Life is pretty good!
Monday, February 5, 2007
tunes!
I just bought $10 computer speakers and improved my quality of life by about 800%.
I also went to Asia today and took photos, but I also have a headache so you'll just have to wait.
Instead, watch this awesome video of Cem Karaca:
I also went to Asia today and took photos, but I also have a headache so you'll just have to wait.
Instead, watch this awesome video of Cem Karaca:
Saturday, February 3, 2007
fun
Hello, gentle readers. Sean was here this week so I was busy being a hostess (and teaching of course). There's nothing like having an old friend around in a new place - it helps maintain sanity. You need that person there to say, no, you're not crazy, it is weird that they seat you in the cinema, it is difficult to know where the bus is going, and so on. I also learned that in spite of its hefty price, my apartment is great because my living room can convert into a very nice guest room.
My new American friend Anil (of purse-snatching-witness fame) also joined us on some of our jaunts, which hopefully eased Sean's burden of keeping me company. Strength in numbers!
Anyway, on to the photos.
PS - if you can help me edit the html of this blog so the text part is wider (and the photos look normal), let me know!
Anil at Markiz, a lovely patisserie:
Sean at Markiz:
Sean on the Bosphorus, during a freezing hike:
The travelers:
Drama:
Birds on the Bosphorus:
Dolmabaçe Sarayı, which was closing right as we arrived (of course!):
Why stand in the cold if you can have a profiterole?
more later!
My new American friend Anil (of purse-snatching-witness fame) also joined us on some of our jaunts, which hopefully eased Sean's burden of keeping me company. Strength in numbers!
Anyway, on to the photos.
PS - if you can help me edit the html of this blog so the text part is wider (and the photos look normal), let me know!
Anil at Markiz, a lovely patisserie:
Sean at Markiz:
Sean on the Bosphorus, during a freezing hike:
The travelers:
Drama:
Birds on the Bosphorus:
Dolmabaçe Sarayı, which was closing right as we arrived (of course!):
Why stand in the cold if you can have a profiterole?
more later!
Monday, January 29, 2007
börek
The Kramers had me over for dinner last night. I didn't know what was going on until I actually went into their kitchen and saw the food being prepared. This is basically what my life is like here - someone tells me something in Turkish and I don't understand until ages later. They taught me how to make börek, a sinful combination of cheese, lamb pastrami (delicious!) and tomatoes, all wrapped up in a thin pastry and deep fried. The ingredients vary but the result is always amazing. I was the deep fryer, so of course we're all lucky I didn't set the place on fire. We also ate more cheese, fresh spinach with just lemon juice squirted on top (soooooo wonderful), olives, pickles, and afterwards bread with honey and cream (a popular simple dessert) and tea. Türkiye seviyorum! Another discovery I've made is fresh squeezed orange & pomegranate juice (both fruits are in season right now), which I can get at school. It tastes like sunshine.
One of my fellow teachers is married to a Turkish woman and today he was describing some of the colorful swear words/phrases that are common here. Many of them involved donkeys, midwives and cement. I'll leave this to your imagination until I get a list of the exact phrases and their translations (stay tuned). I wish I'd had these at my disposal for the would-be purse snatcher.
Sean will be here tomorrow and I can't wait. I bought another set of sheets today, in the typically Turkish combination of bright orange and lime green. Excellent! I also can't wait to explain 800 more times that in North America it is not so scandalous to have men and women live together during university. This subject has earned a lot of raised eyebrows around these parts.
Finally, unfortunately I did not get a chance to see the funeral procession or protest for Hrant Dink. I live far away from where that was happening and the city literally shut down that day. I haven't brought it up with any Turks, either, because it is a very contentious issue. The fact that Armenia is blacked out with a marker on one of the maps at school tells me all I really need to know. Everything you've read in the newspapers or seen on TV is as much as I know, too.
Oh yeah, also, the cat is out of the bag about a certain person being on the Ali G Show.
more later!
One of my fellow teachers is married to a Turkish woman and today he was describing some of the colorful swear words/phrases that are common here. Many of them involved donkeys, midwives and cement. I'll leave this to your imagination until I get a list of the exact phrases and their translations (stay tuned). I wish I'd had these at my disposal for the would-be purse snatcher.
Sean will be here tomorrow and I can't wait. I bought another set of sheets today, in the typically Turkish combination of bright orange and lime green. Excellent! I also can't wait to explain 800 more times that in North America it is not so scandalous to have men and women live together during university. This subject has earned a lot of raised eyebrows around these parts.
Finally, unfortunately I did not get a chance to see the funeral procession or protest for Hrant Dink. I live far away from where that was happening and the city literally shut down that day. I haven't brought it up with any Turks, either, because it is a very contentious issue. The fact that Armenia is blacked out with a marker on one of the maps at school tells me all I really need to know. Everything you've read in the newspapers or seen on TV is as much as I know, too.
Oh yeah, also, the cat is out of the bag about a certain person being on the Ali G Show.
more later!
Friday, January 26, 2007
thieves/internet
I have one piece of fantastic news - my neighbors and I jerry-rigged an ethernet cable from their apartment to mine (through the window - it's awesome), so now I have internet at home. I don't have the Turkish to be able to express to them how much this means to me. Now you can bother me at any hour, day or night!
My other news is more sobering, perhaps. First, the backstory - my first week here, I met two nice Americans: Anil and Emily. They were stopping in Istanbul before touring more of Turkey. We had some drinks, and talked a lot. Anil wrote me this week saying he was back in Istanbul (though Emily had to go home, unfortunately). We met this evening for dinner and more drinks. We went to a cozy little bar in Beyoglu that was full of normal looking young people (all Turks). I put my purse and jacket on the seat next to me, as I always do, but at some point I think my purse fell on the floor (in a corner) and I was straining to hear Anil over the music so perhaps I wasn't paying as much attention as I should have. At one point, Anil said, "are you missing anything? I think that girl just walked by and took something." I looked, and lo and behold, no purse.
Without thinking, and with adrenaline surging through me like a mother protecting her children, I stormed out of the bar onto the street, which was filled with people sitting outside having beer and cigarettes. They were all watching. I looked for my purse and saw it in the hands of this girl who was walking with her friends. I guess she saw me, because she walked over to the corner, dropped the purse, and continued along as if nothing had happened! I ran to my bag, checked it to make sure my wallet was there (it was, nothing taken) and then ran up to her and pulled on her shoulder, yelling HEY! (the only thing I could come up with to say - I need to learn some swear words in Turkish). I've never fought anyone before, but believe me I was ready to, pardon my French, kick the living shit out of that bitch. I was ready to pull her hair and punch her, if necessary. I could have, too - she was probably half my size, and her stupid friends looked pretty tame. They were definitely not professionals. Plus the whole street was watching at this point, and I had a feeling Anil had followed me outside (he had). The group of girls looked at me with their stupid pouty expressions like I was the one who'd done something bad, and I huffed at them in disgust and walked back to the bar, shaking.
So that was my adventure. I was lucky. I am always careful, but clearly tonight I wasn't careful enough. I'm so glad I had an extra pair of eyes there. When I got home, Kramer opened the door as soon as I walked in the building (as always) and helped me get the cable through the window. What a place!
My other news is more sobering, perhaps. First, the backstory - my first week here, I met two nice Americans: Anil and Emily. They were stopping in Istanbul before touring more of Turkey. We had some drinks, and talked a lot. Anil wrote me this week saying he was back in Istanbul (though Emily had to go home, unfortunately). We met this evening for dinner and more drinks. We went to a cozy little bar in Beyoglu that was full of normal looking young people (all Turks). I put my purse and jacket on the seat next to me, as I always do, but at some point I think my purse fell on the floor (in a corner) and I was straining to hear Anil over the music so perhaps I wasn't paying as much attention as I should have. At one point, Anil said, "are you missing anything? I think that girl just walked by and took something." I looked, and lo and behold, no purse.
Without thinking, and with adrenaline surging through me like a mother protecting her children, I stormed out of the bar onto the street, which was filled with people sitting outside having beer and cigarettes. They were all watching. I looked for my purse and saw it in the hands of this girl who was walking with her friends. I guess she saw me, because she walked over to the corner, dropped the purse, and continued along as if nothing had happened! I ran to my bag, checked it to make sure my wallet was there (it was, nothing taken) and then ran up to her and pulled on her shoulder, yelling HEY! (the only thing I could come up with to say - I need to learn some swear words in Turkish). I've never fought anyone before, but believe me I was ready to, pardon my French, kick the living shit out of that bitch. I was ready to pull her hair and punch her, if necessary. I could have, too - she was probably half my size, and her stupid friends looked pretty tame. They were definitely not professionals. Plus the whole street was watching at this point, and I had a feeling Anil had followed me outside (he had). The group of girls looked at me with their stupid pouty expressions like I was the one who'd done something bad, and I huffed at them in disgust and walked back to the bar, shaking.
So that was my adventure. I was lucky. I am always careful, but clearly tonight I wasn't careful enough. I'm so glad I had an extra pair of eyes there. When I got home, Kramer opened the door as soon as I walked in the building (as always) and helped me get the cable through the window. What a place!
femininity
Plane ticket - $400
Salary - not much
Eyebrows - 6YTL (fouuuurrrrr dollars US)
Sitting around in a Turkish salon gossiping - priceless.
So, yeah, I got my eyebrows done yesterday. I went with my fellow teacher Kezi, who is from Cyprus/the UK and speaks Turkish, and we had a great time. Ladies here really know how to do things like eyebrows. My camera is suddenly out of batteries (not sure how, definitely not from overuse, unfortunately) or I would post a photo. Maybe next time.
I'm also learning how to be a hostess - making the tea/coffee, bringing out the tray, etc., except for the ashtray part. I'm still appalled at the prospect of buying an ashtray. I'm putting it off for now, and saucers will have to do.
One of the perks of having business English one-to-ones is that your students are often too busy for class, and have to cancel. I got the call this morning while I was still eating breakfast (and I was waiting for it, too - we haven't had a lesson together in a week) and now I'm free for the rest of the day, and tomorrow as well. I think I'll do some more sightseeing. My meteorologist student tells me it's going to FINALLY get cold this weekend, which will be nice. It's too mild right now.
My first real multi-student class was thrust on me this week with a cheerful,
"oh, they're learning past modals, you'll be fine," but despite all that it's going well. I think I've won them over, especially after I brought chocolate last night. Bribery is a good thing.
Mostly I'm looking forward to a visit by my highly-esteemed fellow blogger and former flatmate Sean, of Said the Gramophone fame. We'll paint Bakırköy red, and then post about it!
love to all.
Salary - not much
Eyebrows - 6YTL (fouuuurrrrr dollars US)
Sitting around in a Turkish salon gossiping - priceless.
So, yeah, I got my eyebrows done yesterday. I went with my fellow teacher Kezi, who is from Cyprus/the UK and speaks Turkish, and we had a great time. Ladies here really know how to do things like eyebrows. My camera is suddenly out of batteries (not sure how, definitely not from overuse, unfortunately) or I would post a photo. Maybe next time.
I'm also learning how to be a hostess - making the tea/coffee, bringing out the tray, etc., except for the ashtray part. I'm still appalled at the prospect of buying an ashtray. I'm putting it off for now, and saucers will have to do.
One of the perks of having business English one-to-ones is that your students are often too busy for class, and have to cancel. I got the call this morning while I was still eating breakfast (and I was waiting for it, too - we haven't had a lesson together in a week) and now I'm free for the rest of the day, and tomorrow as well. I think I'll do some more sightseeing. My meteorologist student tells me it's going to FINALLY get cold this weekend, which will be nice. It's too mild right now.
My first real multi-student class was thrust on me this week with a cheerful,
"oh, they're learning past modals, you'll be fine," but despite all that it's going well. I think I've won them over, especially after I brought chocolate last night. Bribery is a good thing.
Mostly I'm looking forward to a visit by my highly-esteemed fellow blogger and former flatmate Sean, of Said the Gramophone fame. We'll paint Bakırköy red, and then post about it!
love to all.
Sunday, January 21, 2007
house and home
I met my upstairs neighbors. My first contact with them was when, like a moron, I was having trouble opening both the front door and my own door. I imagine I made a lot of noise, and eventually the husband (Murat) came to help me open my apartment door (I'd at least made it into the building by then). He introduced me to his wife, whose name I cannot figure out, said a long string of things to me in rapid Turkish, and quickly realized that I had no idea what he was saying (was it perhaps my blank expression that gave me away?). Later on he came back and expressed his dismay at my water damage (it's not the Ritz, I'll admit, but it works for me). The next time he came over, Gökhan (not my friend from the bar but a guy who works at the school by helping us teachers cope with Turkish life) was there helping me fix the kombi. They had a long conversation which I was left out of, as usual, but I knew it wasn't the last I'd see of the neighbors.
Two nights ago, Murat came over again (they are a bit like Kramer, I'm realizing) and said something about the internet in his house, and gestured for me to follow him upstairs. I was there for about an hour speaking haltingly to him and his wife, and downloading some antivirus programs for them. Often I got the gist of what they were saying but couldn't respond, so there was lots of scribbling and gesturing, which is what most of my conversations are like here anyway. I thought that was the end of things for a while, but last night around 11 I was settled on my couch watching Rushmore by myself when, bing-bong, the doorbell rang and it was Murat's wife with a plate of steaming grape leaves stuffed with delicious things, as well as salad and yogurt. I was so excited! I spoke to Turks at my school and they said this is normal, but still I was thrilled. Then this evening before I left to use the internet, I heard another bing-bong and this time it was Murat with a plate of banana bread for me. What the hell will I do for these kind people? I need to figure out how to say, "my mother will be happy that you are keeping me fed." Maybe I will get them some flowers. It is good to have people's pity while in a foreign land.
In other news, my newest student in the weather guy for CNN Turkey. He's pretty funny. I will try to find video of him online.
In other apartment news, I finally have the heat working and am sleeping in a bed. Hooray! Tomorrow (my day off) I am going to clear all the rubble (like I said, not the Ritz, not totally squalid either) out of my back "patio" so it can be a nice sitting area.
There are zillions of cats here, for whatever reason. They yowl all night. My coworker, who used to be a vet nurse, (haha, sounds like "wet nurse" with a German accent) said that the cats are "in season" and this is why they're making such a racket. It needs to end.
hope you're all well!
Two nights ago, Murat came over again (they are a bit like Kramer, I'm realizing) and said something about the internet in his house, and gestured for me to follow him upstairs. I was there for about an hour speaking haltingly to him and his wife, and downloading some antivirus programs for them. Often I got the gist of what they were saying but couldn't respond, so there was lots of scribbling and gesturing, which is what most of my conversations are like here anyway. I thought that was the end of things for a while, but last night around 11 I was settled on my couch watching Rushmore by myself when, bing-bong, the doorbell rang and it was Murat's wife with a plate of steaming grape leaves stuffed with delicious things, as well as salad and yogurt. I was so excited! I spoke to Turks at my school and they said this is normal, but still I was thrilled. Then this evening before I left to use the internet, I heard another bing-bong and this time it was Murat with a plate of banana bread for me. What the hell will I do for these kind people? I need to figure out how to say, "my mother will be happy that you are keeping me fed." Maybe I will get them some flowers. It is good to have people's pity while in a foreign land.
In other news, my newest student in the weather guy for CNN Turkey. He's pretty funny. I will try to find video of him online.
In other apartment news, I finally have the heat working and am sleeping in a bed. Hooray! Tomorrow (my day off) I am going to clear all the rubble (like I said, not the Ritz, not totally squalid either) out of my back "patio" so it can be a nice sitting area.
There are zillions of cats here, for whatever reason. They yowl all night. My coworker, who used to be a vet nurse, (haha, sounds like "wet nurse" with a German accent) said that the cats are "in season" and this is why they're making such a racket. It needs to end.
hope you're all well!
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
I'm back!
Merhaba!
I know it's been a while. I've had a busy week. I started work, got an apartment, learned how to work a kombi (hot water/heating system), and met some new friends. Today I had my first hot shower in four days - that in itself is an accomplishment.
After a lot of thought, I decided to live in Bakırköy, where my school is located, even though it's a bit on the boring side and a bus ride away from the places I'd come to enjoy in Beyoğlu/Taksim. I looked at some unfurnished places but decided that it was better to get a furnished place and pay a little more. I found a basement apartment with a sliver of a view of the Sea of Marmara. When I look out my back window I can see cargo ships going by. Not bad! I'm still working on getting the heat to work, so for now I'm sleeping in the living room, but that's alright. At first I felt lonely living by myself, but as work gets busier I'm beginning to enjoy having a place nearby where I can escape.
While I was still living in the hotel in Beyoğlu, I went to the same bar every night because it had wireless internet and also the people there were kind and welcoming. After several nights I met a couple Turkish guys, Aslan and Gökhan, doing their PhDs (one at Istanbul University, the other at a university in Sweden) who were looking for someone to edit their papers before they submitted them to journals. We quickly became friends and though now I won't let them pay me for editing, they have colleagues who need help with writing academic English (who doesn't, really), so I might have some extra work lined up. More importantly, I have some new friends who care about me, speak great English, and will teach me how to cook. Yesterday I had an appointment with Pelin's (my Turkish teacher's) sister in a neighborhood very far from my own, and Gökhan and his girlfriend invited me to stay at their house, which was much closer. We sat up late into the night talking and listing to music and I realized that I'm going to have a great time here.
Work is going pretty well. I was nervous about starting in a new school but I've been impressed with my students so far. I only have one-to-ones at the moment, a few of which take place at a company about 30 minutes from the school. The company, Vodaphone, has a deal with my school where a car comes to get us and whisks us away to their high-security office building. As a novice at international teaching, I was surprised at all this hoopla, but apparently it's quite common. I hope my schedule doesn't change much - at the moment it's light and that's the way I want it until I really settle in.
That's the news so far...I miss everyone and promise to take more photos.
Also, I have a cell phone (cep telefonu!) - email me if you want the number.
I know it's been a while. I've had a busy week. I started work, got an apartment, learned how to work a kombi (hot water/heating system), and met some new friends. Today I had my first hot shower in four days - that in itself is an accomplishment.
After a lot of thought, I decided to live in Bakırköy, where my school is located, even though it's a bit on the boring side and a bus ride away from the places I'd come to enjoy in Beyoğlu/Taksim. I looked at some unfurnished places but decided that it was better to get a furnished place and pay a little more. I found a basement apartment with a sliver of a view of the Sea of Marmara. When I look out my back window I can see cargo ships going by. Not bad! I'm still working on getting the heat to work, so for now I'm sleeping in the living room, but that's alright. At first I felt lonely living by myself, but as work gets busier I'm beginning to enjoy having a place nearby where I can escape.
While I was still living in the hotel in Beyoğlu, I went to the same bar every night because it had wireless internet and also the people there were kind and welcoming. After several nights I met a couple Turkish guys, Aslan and Gökhan, doing their PhDs (one at Istanbul University, the other at a university in Sweden) who were looking for someone to edit their papers before they submitted them to journals. We quickly became friends and though now I won't let them pay me for editing, they have colleagues who need help with writing academic English (who doesn't, really), so I might have some extra work lined up. More importantly, I have some new friends who care about me, speak great English, and will teach me how to cook. Yesterday I had an appointment with Pelin's (my Turkish teacher's) sister in a neighborhood very far from my own, and Gökhan and his girlfriend invited me to stay at their house, which was much closer. We sat up late into the night talking and listing to music and I realized that I'm going to have a great time here.
Work is going pretty well. I was nervous about starting in a new school but I've been impressed with my students so far. I only have one-to-ones at the moment, a few of which take place at a company about 30 minutes from the school. The company, Vodaphone, has a deal with my school where a car comes to get us and whisks us away to their high-security office building. As a novice at international teaching, I was surprised at all this hoopla, but apparently it's quite common. I hope my schedule doesn't change much - at the moment it's light and that's the way I want it until I really settle in.
That's the news so far...I miss everyone and promise to take more photos.
Also, I have a cell phone (cep telefonu!) - email me if you want the number.
Sunday, January 7, 2007
some photos
Today I went back to Sultanahmet, but it seemed like all the carpet sellers and tourist hustlers were out to get me and it just wasn't quite as much fun. I need a big burly gay male bodyguard.
I went to the Blue Mosque but didn't take any photos because I was so distracted by trying not to offend anyone. Also I just felt awkward having a camera inside. I didn't go back inside the Basilica or palace, but I took some photos outside:
Perhaps the work of one of my future students? (click to see the whole thing, it's worth it)
I walked part of the way home - this is a view of the Galata bridge, and my neighborhood is buried in there somewhere. I guess it's not SO bad living here:
Fishermen on the bridge:
Touristy shot of the Suleymanye Mosque (I think......)
The main drag of Beyoğlu, Istiklal Caddesi:
Finally, the face I had to wear all day - my No-I-Don't-Want-To-Buy-A-Carpet-Or-Be-Your-Girlfriend Face:
I went to the Blue Mosque but didn't take any photos because I was so distracted by trying not to offend anyone. Also I just felt awkward having a camera inside. I didn't go back inside the Basilica or palace, but I took some photos outside:
Perhaps the work of one of my future students? (click to see the whole thing, it's worth it)
I walked part of the way home - this is a view of the Galata bridge, and my neighborhood is buried in there somewhere. I guess it's not SO bad living here:
Fishermen on the bridge:
Touristy shot of the Suleymanye Mosque (I think......)
The main drag of Beyoğlu, Istiklal Caddesi:
Finally, the face I had to wear all day - my No-I-Don't-Want-To-Buy-A-Carpet-Or-Be-Your-Girlfriend Face:
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